The County of Cumbria An ‘embarras de richesses’

Think of Cumbria as a small country rather than a large county. The old Cumberland was expanded in 1974 to incorporate Westmorland, little bits of Lancashire and Yorkshire, to become Cumbria, with Carlisle the County Town, in the far north. Cumbria covers some 2600 sq. miles - yet the resident population is less than half a million. There is more than enough to do and see to satisfy the most energetic tourist yet it is also the perfect place in which to enjoy a peaceful holiday. Tourist Information Centres are well informed and helpful. Save for some paper making near Kendal, slate mining, and the ship yards in Barrow, there is comparatively little industry and Cumbria is largely sustained by farming and tourism.

Cumbria is a place into which to delve. lt is not a deckchair, bucket and spade sort of place but it offers soul stirring scenery and the finest views of mountains and lakes in the United Kingdom and its dairy and lowland pastures contrast with the steep fell-side . With only a very small acreage under the plough it typifies what has been called ‘’dog and stick farming”. Herdwicks are the famous local sheep breed: small hardy and capable of enduring all weathers on the most meagre rations. To watch well educated sheep visit the Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre near Cockermouth.

Families may prefer to watch rather than participate in sporting activities and Cumberland wrestling, a main attraction at the famous Grasmere sports offers an unusual spectacle and fell racing tests human endurance to its ultimate limits. Better to leave it to the trail hounds, the strong, rangy dogs which follow an aniseed trail high on the fell side for an 8 mile fiercely competitive race. The finish is usually exciting with owners calling their hounds home in an amazing cacophony of shouts and whistles. It is not to be confused with hunting with hounds or the more sedate sheepdog trials made famous by ‘’One Man and His Dog’’

There are many books devoted to Cumbria in general and the Lakes in particular and the Lakeland poets and writers attract attention. Wordsworth House in Cockermouth was his birthplace and, along with Dove Cottage, where he lived, are now major National Trust attractions. The World of Beatrix Potter gives visitors, a chance to meet Peter Rabbit and friends as well as offering a peep into Mr McGregor’s greenhouse.

Almost every town and village has a cafe, restaurant or pub to provide refreshment.

The Old Crown in Hesket Newmarket, a pub owned by the villagers, with its own brewery attached, has become a place of pilgrimage for real ale enthusiasts.The thirsty are never more at home than in Cumbria. A growing number of eating places are using local produce which, let it be said, is very good indeed. This has always been true of Cumbria’s top hotels and restaurants. Sharrow Bay was probably the birthplace of the country house hotel but there are now others of truly international standard. Michelin starred restaurants include Gilpin Lodge, Holbeck Ghyll and L’Enclume. But dining well at more modest prices, often with a spectacular view is a Cumbrian speciality.

Cumbria has its share of fine, castles churches and houses. Sizergh and Levens Hall, its neighbour, are the twin glories of the Elizabethan North, according to Simon Jenkins, and the latter has the most famous topiary garden in England dating from 1694. Holker Hall (pronounced Hooker) is a large Cavendish House with a great garden including a cascade evocative of the Villa d’Este.

From the lovely village of Askham, the ruins of Lowther Castle present a theatrical façade. It is the centre of the famous lands owned by the Earls of Longdale. Hugh 5th Earl, brought the entire estate to its knees by his wild extravagance. Known as the Yellow Earl with his yellow carriages and postilions in matching livery, a fellow peer slyly described him as ‘’almost an Emperor, not quite a gentleman”. Carlisle Cathedral and the Priory at Cartmel are impressive as are churches at Torpenhow (pronounced Trepennah), Brougham, Kirkby Lonsdale and the tiny, but profoundly holy, Saint Bega’s to be found in the meadows between Skiddaw and Bassenthwaite Lake. For interest and sheer eccentricity, however, Saint Mary’s in Wreay (pronounced Reeah), south east of Carlisle is a must see. The heart and soul of Cumbria is the National Park - the Lake District. lt is no surprise that, year round, the area attracts walkers, climbers and those who treasure the changing light and sheer beauty of the place. Beware the local with an empty glass who asks how many lakes there are - there is only one, Bassenthwaite lakes the rest are ‘’meres, tarns or wafers’’. Wastwater, a little forbidding with fells plunging straight into the water, Coniston, the last resting place of Donald Campbell, Rydal the perfect subject for a Victorian water colour, Bassenthwaite with a good chance of seeing the Ospreys from an RSPB hide, Ullswater, perhaps the most beautiful and peaceful, Derwentwater with its thriving Theatre Beside the Lake. The fells provide hill walks of every grade from gentle to severe and rock climbing is equally diverse with the most difficult and dangerous challenging world experts. Mention Scafell Pike, Helvellyn and Great Gable to the experienced rock climber and you will have his undivided attention.

Any expedition on the fells needs planning: very changeable weather requires proper clothing and equipment and it is prudent to leave word where you intend to go and the time when you expect to return. A mobile phone can be more of a nuisance than a help. One of Wainwrights books which describe every walk and climb of significance will greatly enhance any expedition. But with care and common sense a venture onto the fells will be a magical experience enhanced by what the older locals call a ‘’pocket crust’s eaten on fell-side or summit with an amiable companion.

Hugh Henry Ellonby. May 2008